Planting your Living Christmas Tree

When it comes time to plant your tree you will notice all of Camino Garden Center's Christmas trees are planted in ball and burlap.  This simply means the tree was field grown then dug from the ground when it was old enough.  Keep the burlap on your plant's root ball to prevent transplant shock.  Simply place the root ball in the ground with the neck of the tree slightly raised to prevent rot.  Cut the strings and burlap away from the neck of the tree and bury with the root ball.  Make sure to water your newly planted tree. 

Living Christmas Tree Care

Spruce and Fir trees are outdoor tree and do best in that environment.  When bringing a living outdoor plant inside there are a few things you can do to ensure the health of your tree.  First transition your tree to the garage or covered porch before bringing it indoors.  Make sure to repeat this procedure when moving the tree back outside.  Never leave your tree indoors for more than two weeks.  And always provide plenty of water for your tree.  You keep your house much warmer and drier than your plant wants so make sure to water your tree.  Camino Garden Center suggests placing a tray of ice cubes in the pot everyday.  This will keep your tree hydrated and the roots cool without spilling water all over the floor.

Fall Pond Cleaning

It’s time to clean the leaves out of your pond. Heavy winds and rain have washed organic material into your pond. That organic material needs to be dealt with to ensure the health of your pond environment. Leaves and Pine needles in small amount don’t harm your pond but in large quantities it can deter clarity, change PH, and overwhelm the natural balance of your pond. If you have no fish or aquatic plants then you can drain your pond clean out the leaves and cover your pond for the winter. If you have plants and fish in your pond this usually is not an option. I like to use a rake to clean leaves and needles out of my ponds. This will get the majority of your organic material out, but you really need to get down on you knees to get the last of the material out. In large ponds you may need to get into the pond to do a proper cleaning. After you have your pond clean, try covering your pond with bird netting, this will reduce the amount of future leaves and needles that end up in your pond. Every once in a while pull the leaf-laden netting off your pond and dump the leaves into a compost bin or trash. Remember to replace the netting on your pond to keep those leaves out.

Cold Winter Winds

With winter approaching one thing is certain, we are just beginning to see the wind pick up and blow our plants over. Now is the time to stake your tender trees and shrubs. Loosely staking your plants will allow them to move a little strengthening their roots, but protecting them from the heavy winds that can pull them out of the ground.

Don’t forget to water when the winds start to blow. A cold dry wind dries out more than your skin. Wind will rob your plants of water faster than a hot day. If you know the wind is coming water your plants, this will keep them hydrated and protect them from some of the cold temperatures. The water acts like a barrier keeping the cold air from directly touching your plants, thus keeping them a degree or two warmer. This works well for short freezes a couple degrees colder than your plant can handle.

Covering your plants with a lightweight breathable fabric like Gardeneer’s Harvest-Guard will help protect tender and young plants from cold weather.

Features:

This floating row cover traps heat and moisture to produce bigger, better and earlier crop yieldsProtects against frost, insects and birdsEasy to use - "floats" over crops without support

Item #/Size:

# HG-25: 5'x25'

# HG-50: 5'x50'

Usage ideas: Vegetable gardens, strawberry rows, can also use on newly-sown grass

Christmas Trees are Here!

Dormant Spray

Falling leaves is a sign to let us know that it is time to start spraying your fruit trees. Lilly Miller's Microcop is the perfect solution to prevent peach leaf curl, anthracnose, canker, and blights on fruit and nut trees.

But this product does more than that, spray your roses, shrubs, and vines to prevent many of the diseases, like galls, leaf spots, powdery mildew, and blights that plague your plants in the spring and summer season. Preventing the diseases now saves you time, money, and aggravation later. Spray Microcop on your winter vegetables to prevent damping off during wet weather.

Microcop is a two part spray, copper fungicide and spreader sticker to adhere the spray to your plants. We recomend spraying your plants three times throughout the winter season. Thanksgiving, Christmas, and Valentines day are three dates to easily remember. But you can pick your own schedule as long as the branches are free of leaves.

Fall Hours

Gardening Basics

Enriching the Soil
In nature, dead or rotting vegetation, animal manure and decaying animal remains provide adequate nutrition for the soil. As man removes the crops or gardens he grows, he must replenish the soil with organic material to maintain a healthy and productive soil. It's a simple concept. You must replace what you take out.

Digging
Despite the activity of earthworms, burrowing animals and penetrating plant roots, untended soil is still relatively hard and compacted. We can improve the texture by digging, or turning over the soil, to allow oxygen and water into the soil.

Seeding
In nature, relatively few seeds germinate because of competition from other plants and poor soil conditions. In the garden, most seeds will germinate as they are given optimum conditions and spacing, along with organic matter and moisture.

Watering
Plants are dependent on water for their survival. Whereas adequate rainfall cannot be guaranteed in nature, in the garden, additional water can be given to plants at optimum amounts for maximum success.

Pest Control
Nature maintains its delicate balance by ensuring that pests and predators control each others numbers. Man can encourage and assist this process while also protecting his plants by using artificial means. Releasing ladybugs and praying mantises can control a wide variety of insects. Introducing beneficial nematodes in the soil can be of great help in controlling soil pests.

Finally
Left to its own devices, nature would not produce a very abundant harvest, either in terms of quantity or in the size of individual fruits. The harvest from cultivated ground that has been enriched and cared for will always outweigh what Mother Nature can produce.

Dr. Earth Website
http://www.drearth.com/

Fall Feeding

Fall and winter is the time of year you want to improve the health of your plants without encouraging green top growth. this can be accomplished with Master Nursery's Master Bloom. Master Bloom is formulated without nitrogen to aid in the development of flower and fruit buds. This product also helps plants resist diseases and cold weather damage.


Master Bloom 0-10-10
• Makes flowers bloom profusely, without getting leggy.
• Includes calcium and sulfur for better water penetration.
• Use in winter for strong plants in the spring.
• Good for acid loving plants.

Sizes: 5 lbs, 20 lbs can be found at Camino Garden Center

In the fall your lawn needs a different blend of nutrients. Use Master Nursery's Fall & Winter Feed for lawns. This fertilizer is formulated to produce a rich green lawn, encourage root growth and improve the turfs's resistance to diseases.

Easy Livin'® Fall & Winter Feed for Lawns 20-6-7
• Promotes deep green color, encourages root growth and improves resistance to disease.
• Ideal for cool weather and cool climates to maintain rich green.





Size: 20 lbs can be found at Camino Garden Center

Happy Halloween

The Science Behind Fall Color

The brilliant colors of deciduous trees and shrubs display in fall are actually the grande finale of the compliceted process of photosynthesis. That's how plants produce food. It takes place in the leaf cells that contain chlorophyll, the pigment that makes leaves green. Leaves make chlorophyll all through the growing season. But as temperatures get cooler and the days get shorter, chlorophyll production slows down and eventually stops. As the chlorophyll declines, the green starts to fade away, revealing pigments that had been hidden by green. This is when the show begins.

Carotenoids are yellow pigments that turn aspens and ginkgos stunning shades of yellow and gold. Tannins are responsible for the dull browns of some oaks. And since all leaves contain at least some tannin, that's why most of them eventually turn to brown, especially after they fall to the ground.

Anthocyanin turns maples red and dogwoods purple. It's a bit more temperamental than the other two pigments, and needs lots of sunlight to reach its colorful peak. If the leaf doesn't get enough sun, the color stops at yellow, orange or even brown.

Of course temperatures come into play as well. Early freezes reduce colorful foilage because the leaves are killed before they can go through this elaborate process. Long, warm fall days and bright sun will create the most colorful fall show.

Yellow Foliage

Aspens
Birch

Orange Foliage

Sugar Maples
Barberry


Red Foliage

Dwarf Buring Bush
October Glory Maple
Red Sunset Maple
Sweet Gum - Liquid Amber

Dr. Earth Bulb Food

Contains a superior blend of fish bone meal, alfalfa meal, soft rock phosphate, feather meal, mined potassium sulfate.


Primary Uses:
Feed all bulbs, tubers, corms and rhizomes.

Benefits:
100% natural and organic.
Better, faster results.
Bigger, more abundant blooms naturally.
Loosens and improves soil structure.
Formulated to feed both short and long term.
People and pet safe.

Winterizing Your Plants

Wilt Stop Plant Protector Concentrate QT

This natural, non-toxic product, derived from the resin of pine trees, has the unique ability to form a soft, clear flexible film on treated plants. This film protects plants from drying out, drought, wind burn, sunscald, winter kill, transplant shock and salt damage. WILT STOPTM also extends life of cut flowers and Christmas trees. Great for use year around on deciduous trees, evergreens, shrubs, roses, transplants, vegetables, fruit--- RTU-5% Pinene. Concentrate-25% Pinene. RTS-90% Pinene

GROWING ORGANIC BULBS

GROWING ORGANIC BULBS
There is a certain joyous feeling that comes from planting bulbs in the ground and forgetting about them, only to be pleasantly surprised the day they break ground several months later. We at Dr. Earth feel good about the many surprises that the garden offers us at different times of the year, especially the colorful beauty that bulbs share with us for that short period of time. Growing organic bulbs is even more rewarding because we know we have worked within the guidelines that Mother Nature has provided for us.

Every time I put a bulb in the ground or in a container I feel butterflies in my stomach, I think it's because I know something really spectacular is going to happen, I can almost sense the flush of color that will delight every part of my senses. Organic bulbs are great to grow because I can feel good about bringing the color into my home without the fear of bringing in the chemicals from fertilizers or pesticides. Organic bulbs are also much hardier than their chemical counterparts because they have been grown steadily without the unnatural growth spikes that they experience with chemical fertilizers. Bulbs are really simple to grow and re-grow once we understand some of their basic requirements.

Because of the remarkably beautiful flowers they produce, bulbs have become tremendously popular. They're available in a wide range of color, form and the size of their flowers; they grow indoors as well as out; and in addition they're easy to grow.

The size alone of a bulb does not constitute its value or quality, but firmness weight and condition do. If it is a true bulb (daffodil, lily or tulip) the layers or scales should be firmly bound, so that there is no feeling of softness or looseness when it is squeezed in your hand. If it is a rhizome, corm or tuber (such as calla, crocus or dahlia) the flesh should be plump and firm. Good quality bulbs also carry the distinction of being heavy. It is not unusual to find bulbs of the same species, variety and size but varying considerably, with the inferior quality bulbs on the lighter side. The skin and condition of the coating should be bright and free of any bruises or deep cuts. Bulbs that are cut or damaged are likely to rot or decompose before ever sprouting.

It is always best to plant the bulbs immediately after purchasing; if you cannot do that, store in a cool dry location with good ventilation, keep in mind that any extreme artificial temperature will dry the bulb and cause it to shrivel, which can damage it, also keep in mind that pests such as squirrels, rats and mice find them a delicacy.

PLANTING BULBS
No matter where you live, you can turn your soil and environment to work to your advantage and achieve great results. Here are some tips that will help.
SOIL It is very important that the Soil drains well. Bulbs require loose porous soil in order to develop strong root systems. If your soil is heavy and mostly clay it is very important to break-up the soil with organic materials such as compost, mulch and planting mix, I recommend that you use Dr. Earth planting mix for amending all soil types or Dr. Earth potting soil for container plants. Dr. Earth soils contain the proper medium to support maximum root development that your bulbs will need to get off to a great start.

PLANTING DEPTH
Refer to the back of our Organic 1TM Bulb Food box for a planting chart, or follow the bulb growers recommended depth for the variety you have chosen. Keep in mind that the area you live in will determine the depth your bulbs will be planted, the colder the soil, the deeper you will need to go.

FERTILIZING
Bulbs are starch bodies and contain all the food they will need for the first season, naturally. Fertilizing with Dr. Earth Bulb Food will ensure they root more quickly and will provide them with added nutrients that will support maximum blooms.

PLANTING
Plant your bulbs with the point facing up, there are exceptions to this rule such as Anemones and Ranunculus, their point is facing down. Make sure you have referred to the planting depth of each bulb. Dig the hole to the correct depth, apply Dr. Earth Bulb food at the bottom of the hole, place the bulb into the hole point facing up, then cover the hole with the appropriate amount of soil.

WATERING
Thoroughly water the soil after planting your bulbs. Water will help to break your bulbs out of dormancy and will also activate the fertilizer. Water you bulbs at least once a week to the point that the soil is saturated. Once the foliage appears and your bulbs are established, continue to water deeply at least once a week.

SECOND FERTILIZING
Once the bulbs are established and are showing abundant foliage before flowering, fertilize a second time with Dr. Earth Bulb Food. Lightly cultivate one tbsp. into the top ½ inch of soil. Water thoroughly. This second application will enhance the blooming cycle and will also help the bulbs build-up their nutrient content for the following year.

ALLOWING BULBS TO ''DIE BACK''
If you want to save your bulbs for the following year, it is very important to keep the leaves on the plant after they have finished blooming. Fertilize a third time with Dr. Earth Bulb Food to build-up the maximum nutrient content for the following season. When the foliage begins to fade cut back on the watering, then shortly thereafter stop watering completely. You can remove the brown foliage when they are at the stage to where they just lift of the bulb with ease. The bulbs are now starting their dormant stage.

STORAGE
If you are storing your bulbs, you will need to carefully dig them up and clean off all the soil and debris. Dust them with a sulfur fungicide if possible. Store them in a paper bag in a dry cool location where they will be protected from heat, moisture and pests.

FORCING BULBS
Bulbs are easy to grow indoors. They can be forced successfully in the window of an apartment, home, cold frame or in the greenhouse. No special skill is needed and if light, sufficient moisture and temperature are high enough, you can successfully force bulbs. You can use many different types of containers; larger bulbs will require larger containers. When spacing your bulbs make sure they do not touch each other, their should be soil between every bulb. Some bulbs will force more easily than others, please consult with Camino Garden Center for our favorite selection. Plant bulbs as soon as you buy them in a container that has good drainage, roots cannot grow in moist soil that can easily stagnate. Follow the other tips above and you can grow rich, hardy organic bulbs that will delight every part of your senses.

Milo Lou Shammas
Founder and Formulator
Dr. Earth Company
Just Go Organic!TM
http://www.drearth.com/

Mycorrhizae

Mycorrhizae
What are mycorrhizae? The word ''mycorrhizae'' derives from the Greek words: mykes, meaning fungus and rhiza, meaning root. That is just what mycorrhizae are, specialized, beneficial fungi that establish symbiotic relationships with plant roots. It is estimated that as much as 90% of the worlds land plants develop some kind of symbiosis with mycorrhizae.

How do they work?
The mycorrhizal fungi penetrate growing plant root tissues, surround the root mass and extend far into the surrounding soil, encompassing a much greater volume of soil than that occupied by the plant's own roots and root hair system. The fungi's long thread-like mycelia are especially effective in capturing moisture and nutrients from the soil, particularly Nitrogen and Phosphorous. The fungi consume the nutrients but more importantly, they generously share them with the roots of the host plant. In return, the host plant provides the fungi with photosynthesized nutrients, especially sugars.

Building great soil structure:
Mycorrhizae also act as an important soil-binding agent, significantly contributing to friable soil texture. Their countless long filaments called hyphae tend to accumulate in the soil over a period of time and can persist for months or even years. Larger soil particles, particularly the sand-sized fraction, tend to be held together by these hyphae. The filaments tend to have sticky surfaces from extracellular polysaccharides, which are sugars processed and exuded by the mycorrhizae. Additionally, the tips of developing root hairs likewise secrete polysaccharidic mucigel, a similarly sticky, plant-produced substance. Together, these sticky materials enable the filamentous hyphae to strongly adhere to the soil particles, physically binding and enmeshing them together to form tiny, semi-stable aggregates. This aggregate structure increases in the root zone, encouraging further root growth, which in turn attracts more mycorrhizae, leading to more aggregation and so on, perpetuating the process.

What does this process mean to the gardener?
Mycorrhizae help to absorb nutrients, assist in drought tolerance and create ideal garden soil structure, soil that drains, breaths and retains optimum moisture. The near perfect ''coffee-grounds' soil texture often found in fastidiously maintained organic gardens are an example of long-term mycorrhizal soil activity.

Just Go Organic!TM
Dr. Earth Website
http://www.drearth.com/

Mountain Hibiscus

Hibiscus Moscheutos
Mountain Hibiscus

Hardy Hibiscus

Rose Mallow

Height:
4-6 ft. (1.2-1.8 m)

Spacing:
24-36 in. (60-90 cm)

Sun Exposure:
Full Sun

Bloom Color:
Red
White/Near White
Pink
Lavender

Bloom Time:
Mid Summer
Late Summer/Early Fall

Foliage:
Deciduous

Other details:
Water regularly; Requires consistently moist soil; do not let dry out between waterings.

Soil pH requirements:
6.1 to 6.5 (mildly acidic)

Patent Information:
Non-patented

One of the most dramatic eye catching flowers you will find to grow in the sierra foothills. Flowers can range from six inches to nearly 12 inches across.

Mission Statement

Our Mission is to:

Grow and Sell the best product and service possible.

Educate our customers to be better gardeners.

Get people excited about gardening.

Continually grow our customer base.